Islamabad August 28

This morning we decided to do the truck painting and a Lok Virsa Cultural museum tour. Since the rest of the group did the tour yesterday it was just the three of us today; however, we finally met them later in the day during the city tour of Islamabad.

Leaving the Serena Hotel we noticed a guard with a machine gun standing watch in a tower on the property along with another guard carrying a gun near the front driveway. Now, I understand why a guy with a machine gun was seen next to our hotel patrolling on a new construction site facing the hotel. They aren’t leaving anything to chance. Even a guard came over to us and asked us not to film near the gate. Okay, no problem! We’re off to the truck painting.

The truck painting is nothing less than spectacular with the patience of Job factored in. One must see the production to understand all the work involved. I mentioned some of the facts in yesterday’s blog, we found out that with the truck being out of commission while painted - there is no money coming in to support the person. Also, children begin as an apprentice at 8 years old and if they don’t do well they are out of work and must find other employment. It’s certainly not an easy life. One guy painting the chains and medallions (called Jingles) hanging from the bumpers had paint nearly up to his elbows and the paint was probably lead-based. And, imagine the fumes coming from all the paint cans in very hot and humid conditions. Such is life.

Not the entire truck is painted, but the designs are also made from tiny pieces of reflective tape cut into leaves, circles, figure outlines, and any other shape. The backing is peeled off each little piece and stuck on to the truck in intricate designs. These men were real artists, took extreme pride in their workmanship and their designs were very elaborate. Some trucks even had carved wood decorations on them.

After a tour through an cultural museum, we went to a viewpoint above the city where we could see all of Islamabad. Our guide could speak many languages, was so pleasant and very knowledgeable. The next stop took us to King Faisal’s Mosque where 85,000 people could worship outside and 15,000 inside. With Ramadan next month there will be a celebration with important dignitaries attending and the mosque will be packed. I must tell you, the head scarf I wore to show respect kept slipping off my head – I’ve got to try the other one I brought.

And, talking about mosques, remember in July all the trouble at the Red Mosque? Our driver took us by it; however, it is no longer red, it’s now cream colored. According to our guide, after the clash with the military, the government decided to paint it white, but as they had a celebration there, the radicals had smuggled red paint and brushes in and had the mosque half painted red again. This was done even after security had checked pockets and everything else on a person before entering. No one could figure how the radicals managed to do it. Then the government brought their brushes and white paint in and covered up the red paint again. There must be underground tunnels reaching out from the Mosque. The Red Mosque, now white, is only a short distance from our hotel.

Just a side note, but it’s exciting. Since it was too dangerous to head to the Swat Valley, the tour is now taking us to the Baltistan area of Pakistan which is in Northern Pakistan. It’s our understanding this particular area never sees tourists, only mountaineers who come to climb K-2, the second highest mountain peak in the world, behind Everest. Our group is the first to explore and stay in Baltistan (an area) and near Skardu (a town). If anyone has read THREE CUPS OF TEA by Greg Mortenson, this is the area he writes about. Our guide hails from Baltistan and when I mentioned this book and its author, Hassan, said,” Dr. Greg!” He knew exactly whom I was talking about. Mortenson is a hero for building schools in Northern Pakistan for both boys and girls to attend. I highly recommend the book. Thanks, Maureen, it’s being passed around.

The tour is leaving tomorrow at 8 AM and no telling what we will experience on the Karakoram Highway (KKH). We now will be traveling the entire length of the KKH rather than a portion of it. We’ll keep you posted when possible.

The people we have met so far in Pakistan have been very pleasant; however, we were advised to represent ourselves as Canadians, if asked and not to tell anyone about our next day’s destination.

As a side note: the other day while driving to the airport in Abu Dhabi we saw fireballs and explosions. We found out a chemical plant in the Port of Dubai had exploded and burned to the ground.

The best to everyone!

Garry, Tamara and Rich…

Captions: 1) Guards at the entrance of Serena Hotel 2) Security at entrance of hotel 3) Elaborate Truck painting 4) King Faisal Mosque 5) Red Mosque (now white) 6) video of truck painting