Karakoram Highway - August 29/30

We thought our worst concern was terrorism in Pakistan. Heck, that risk PALES in comparison to driving the Karakoram Highway (KKH). Throw away any concept you may have of a highway in the United States. This highway twisted and turned from the time we left Islamabad and arrived in Gilgit in Northern Pakistan – two full days of traveling in a 20 passenger van.

In the course of this trip we encountered fairly heavy traffic and many towns. Let’s describe a typical town we drove through in the first 200 kilometers north of Islamabad. The road is one and ½ lanes wide, has soft stone shoulders, broken asphalt, potholes, wandering goats, cows, wheelbarrows, people, kids, and vehicles coming at us from all angles and both sides of the road. The driver slalomed through all this activity while everyone on the bus was biting their fingernails down to the quick. We went through a number of towns like this.

Interestingly, we saw hundreds and hundreds of men in these towns, but no women. It was explained to us, women are not allowed in public unless they are escorted by a male relative and then only if they are fully covered. For a better understanding of this custom, please read A THOUSAND SPLENDID SUNS by Khaled Hosseini, the author THE KITE RUNNER

We drove through a town severely damaged by the October 2005 earthquake. Our guide pointed out it wasn’t far from the epicenter and told a particularly sad story where a local school’s roof collapsed at 8:00AM killing 200 pupils and teachers.

In between towns the KKH is very rough and we dodged oncoming traffic including those large painted trucks we described in the last blog, each carrying a different kind of cargo such as fuel, rocks, wheat, potatoes, water buffalo, and logs just to name a few.

We were absolutely exhausted by the time we arrived in Besham, 10 hours north of Islamabad. The hotel was extremely spartan where we spent a sticky night with no air conditioning and a wake up call at 5:00AM for another thrilling ride.

After breakfast we headed out and very shortly thereafter stopped cold in the middle of the road blocked by a large herd of goats sauntering up the highway. How did you begin your day??? There weren’t many towns, but the road was more treacherous. Imagine a road carved into the side of a canyon wall averaging 1000 feet above the raging Indus River below. The KKH was still a rutted, potholed asphalt road at most one and one half lanes wide with soft shoulders, constant winding with sharp hairpin turns. There were only a few guardrails and those were damaged by rock falls.

On top of this, there were severe road hazards, such as fresh rock falls which narrowed the road to one lane; washed out sections with no asphalt; but just rocks to drive over; flowing water over the road rushing down from the mountains. We traveled 330 kilometers in these conditions as we glanced out the window and sometimes could see only 12 inches of gravel between us and the drop off. On MANY occasions it was a white knuckled trip

At one point we drove through a section of the KKH narrowed by recent rock fall to one lane and halted as we came head to head with one of those massive painted jingle trucks. Additional vehicles stopped behind both vehicles and it was a stand off, neither of the drivers willing to budge. Ultimately, the situation was resolved when the vehicles behind us backed up and then our vehicle, allowing the truck to pass. According, to our guide the truck driver was young and didn’t know how to back up his truck.

The mountain scenery was spectacular, stunning and some of the most magnificent we’ve ever seen. This is a region where three major mountain ranges are visible at one point – the Karakoram, the Hindu Kush, and the Himalayas. Pakistan is home to 7 of the 10 tallest mountains in the world including K2, second only to Everest. We saw ranges of mountains progressively higher, with the highest snow-capped mountains in the distance.

As we drove along the KKH we occasionally saw rivers flowing into the Indus River from glacier runoff. The water was a beautiful shade of clear blue which contrasted with the milky gray color of the Indus caused by eroding limestone rock.

We are getting tired and have another 8 hour drive tomorrow to Skardu. Stay tuned for more adventures.

Due to poor Internet connection photos can't be uploaded. Sorry! (Photos added after return to the States from this blog entry to the end of trip)

Take care,

Rich, Garry and Tamara

Captions: 1) Herd of goats blocking the KKH 2) Clear glacial rivers flowing into Indus River 3) Curving road of KKH 4) Jingle truck blocking one lane portion of KKH 5) Snow-capped mountains

Islamabad August 28

This morning we decided to do the truck painting and a Lok Virsa Cultural museum tour. Since the rest of the group did the tour yesterday it was just the three of us today; however, we finally met them later in the day during the city tour of Islamabad.

Leaving the Serena Hotel we noticed a guard with a machine gun standing watch in a tower on the property along with another guard carrying a gun near the front driveway. Now, I understand why a guy with a machine gun was seen next to our hotel patrolling on a new construction site facing the hotel. They aren’t leaving anything to chance. Even a guard came over to us and asked us not to film near the gate. Okay, no problem! We’re off to the truck painting.

The truck painting is nothing less than spectacular with the patience of Job factored in. One must see the production to understand all the work involved. I mentioned some of the facts in yesterday’s blog, we found out that with the truck being out of commission while painted - there is no money coming in to support the person. Also, children begin as an apprentice at 8 years old and if they don’t do well they are out of work and must find other employment. It’s certainly not an easy life. One guy painting the chains and medallions (called Jingles) hanging from the bumpers had paint nearly up to his elbows and the paint was probably lead-based. And, imagine the fumes coming from all the paint cans in very hot and humid conditions. Such is life.

Not the entire truck is painted, but the designs are also made from tiny pieces of reflective tape cut into leaves, circles, figure outlines, and any other shape. The backing is peeled off each little piece and stuck on to the truck in intricate designs. These men were real artists, took extreme pride in their workmanship and their designs were very elaborate. Some trucks even had carved wood decorations on them.

After a tour through an cultural museum, we went to a viewpoint above the city where we could see all of Islamabad. Our guide could speak many languages, was so pleasant and very knowledgeable. The next stop took us to King Faisal’s Mosque where 85,000 people could worship outside and 15,000 inside. With Ramadan next month there will be a celebration with important dignitaries attending and the mosque will be packed. I must tell you, the head scarf I wore to show respect kept slipping off my head – I’ve got to try the other one I brought.

And, talking about mosques, remember in July all the trouble at the Red Mosque? Our driver took us by it; however, it is no longer red, it’s now cream colored. According to our guide, after the clash with the military, the government decided to paint it white, but as they had a celebration there, the radicals had smuggled red paint and brushes in and had the mosque half painted red again. This was done even after security had checked pockets and everything else on a person before entering. No one could figure how the radicals managed to do it. Then the government brought their brushes and white paint in and covered up the red paint again. There must be underground tunnels reaching out from the Mosque. The Red Mosque, now white, is only a short distance from our hotel.

Just a side note, but it’s exciting. Since it was too dangerous to head to the Swat Valley, the tour is now taking us to the Baltistan area of Pakistan which is in Northern Pakistan. It’s our understanding this particular area never sees tourists, only mountaineers who come to climb K-2, the second highest mountain peak in the world, behind Everest. Our group is the first to explore and stay in Baltistan (an area) and near Skardu (a town). If anyone has read THREE CUPS OF TEA by Greg Mortenson, this is the area he writes about. Our guide hails from Baltistan and when I mentioned this book and its author, Hassan, said,” Dr. Greg!” He knew exactly whom I was talking about. Mortenson is a hero for building schools in Northern Pakistan for both boys and girls to attend. I highly recommend the book. Thanks, Maureen, it’s being passed around.

The tour is leaving tomorrow at 8 AM and no telling what we will experience on the Karakoram Highway (KKH). We now will be traveling the entire length of the KKH rather than a portion of it. We’ll keep you posted when possible.

The people we have met so far in Pakistan have been very pleasant; however, we were advised to represent ourselves as Canadians, if asked and not to tell anyone about our next day’s destination.

As a side note: the other day while driving to the airport in Abu Dhabi we saw fireballs and explosions. We found out a chemical plant in the Port of Dubai had exploded and burned to the ground.

The best to everyone!

Garry, Tamara and Rich…

Captions: 1) Guards at the entrance of Serena Hotel 2) Security at entrance of hotel 3) Elaborate Truck painting 4) King Faisal Mosque 5) Red Mosque (now white) 6) video of truck painting

Arrival in Islamabad August 27

We arrived safely in Islamabad, Pakistan. The flight took about three hours and clearing customs proved quite easy.

Leaving Dubai this morning at 5:00am, the limo driver had a cold washcloth and chocolates waiting for us when we exited the hotel. The ride to the Abu Dhabi airport took approximately one hour. Unfortunately, we saw a terrible accident with someone covered with a sheet lying in the roadway. Also, large explosions or fireballs were seen in the distance and we couldn't guess what was happening. However, at that time of the morning we did well keeping awake.

The local guide was waiting for us and we were driven by car to the Serena Hotel. The hotel is very nice, the best in the city according to our guide, located in the diplomatic enclave. As you might expect from its location, the security around the hotel is very thorough... five guards inspected every part of the car along with in-ground steel barricades that recede into the ground only after you pass inspection. Various other obstructions, like staggered jersey walls, block a direct drive to the hotel - one needs to drive around them on the way to the hotel’s entrance and finally, airport type security checks you and your luggage as you enter the hotel.

We will have a full briefing tomorrow, but our guide told us that there will be some changes to the original itinerary. For example, we will completely avoid the Swat Valley because some policemen were killed near the town where we were going to stay. We will travel farther east into Baltistan better known as “Little Tibet.” It won't affect the quality of the trip because all of Northern Pakistan is beautiful. We'll be traveling on the Karakoram Highway out of Islamabad, much further east from the original road to Swat. Don't you just love that name, SWAT? Some portions of the road I'm told is full of potholes and rather rugged. By the way, a group of Spaniards had decided to push on to Swat in spite of the incidents, but our guide Claudio feels a group of foreigners is just asking for trouble. Somehow I agree.

Despite the above, our trip will be very safe. We will not be near any problem areas, and the fact is that Pakistanis as a whole are very friendly. The people are much like those we encountered in Mongolia.

Tomorrow we plan on visiting a truck painting factory. The painting is very elaborate, costs $2000., takes 10 weeks to complete and there are 60,000 people employed in the truck painting industry. How do I know all this, my roommate took the tour today before I arrived and she (Antonieta) gave me all the particulars. More to follow. See photo for an initial view of a truck taken on the way from the airport.

Our daily schedule plans include a short tour of Islamabad in the afternoon tomorrow and a welcome dinner in the evening where we meet all of our fellow travelers. In the morning the three of us plan on the truck painting tour, but that plan can change at any moment.

We'll have wireless connection in our rooms for the next two days, but afterwards the Internet will be sparse.

Hope you are enjoying the blog and thanks for the comments. It gives us a touch with home.

Rich, Tamara and Garry

Captions: 1) Sign at Islamabad Airport 2) Cold washclothes and chocolates offered by limo driver 3) Musicians playing as we entered the Serena Hotel in Islamabad 4) The lobby (although dark) of the Serena Hotel 5) Photo of painted truck taken through car window

Dubai - Indoor Ski Slope and CHILLOUT Ice Lounge

What a day we’ve had attempting to squeeze in everything humanly possible before flying to Islamabad tomorrow morning. Of course, with only a few hours of sleep last night made today exceptionally difficult; however, I persevered.

We invited LeDesa to join us as our day began at the Dubai Financial Market (DFM). Adam who works here got us on the Stock Exchange. Since the market isn’t very good right now there weren’t many traders on the floor, but it was interesting to see CNBC on the TVs above the ticker tape. In days of a booming market it would be quite an entirely different story.

Leaving the DFM, we hailed a taxi to the Mall of the Emirates and had lunch at the base of the indoor ski slope – inside naturally and at a table at the window. What a production! Children snowboarding and skiing, some taking lessons, others knowing exactly what to do, we wanted to experience it too. We did, by paying our 60 dirham, the equivalent of around $20.USD which entitled us to a parka, boots, pants, socks and entry fee. The young lady advised us to purchase gloves and a hat and who whips out his own, none other than Garry. Being the nice guy that he is (cough), he offered to share his gloves with us.

With all our rental clothing on and personal belongings stashed in a locker we headed into the snow area. The temperature change was dramatic, but the ice cravings, one of a huge dragon greeted us. After walking around we grabbed a rubber toboggan and headed to the top (it wasn’t that high) of the twin bobsled run. Lying down on our backs, we shoved off and twisted and turned down the run scraping a few knuckles on the way. A few runs were enough and climbing to a vantage point to view the ski slope was next with a few photo opportunities. After a small snowball fight I might add, we headed out, changed and off to the next adventure.

Thinking the CHILLOUT Ice Lounge was in the Mall of the Emirates was incorrect. A young lady overheard our conversation and called her husband who told us that it was located in Times Square, a new shopping mall. So, into another taxi we go and found the Ice Lounge. Again, we paid 60 dirham, put on a parka, boots, gloves and walked through, I swear, a door that looked like a door to a meat locker. And, it was even colder than a meat locker. Since Dubai is basically nonalcoholic, except in hotels, our choice of drink was either mango juice or lemon juice. Not bad and sheepskins covered the blocks of ice we sat on. The décor, glasses, tables, seats were made out of ice and no, one’s lips did not stick to the glass. One of the ice carvings was huge depicting the different buildings in Dubai including the Burj. Another was a camel under a palm tree.

After giving up our warm clothing we hailed another taxi for the Gold Souk. At the Gold Souk, it’s one store after another for blocks and blocks. Some guy hawking knockoff purses told us to follow him and we did for quite a distance through alleys and into a building, up three flights of stairs. He knocked on the door and we entered. What a riot, but no purses or watches to our liking.

Not only did the four of us do that one time, we repeated it again a few minutes later – this time through garbage strewn alleys assaulting the senses. Just imagine that with 104 degree weather with maximum humidity. Still no luck.

I wanted to purchase some pashminas, but the quality wasn’t what I expected. This vendor squeezed us into his TINY shop to aggressively show us his inventory. Garry took pity and bought one to help the guy out and so we could get out of his shop.

We had enough, enough of the heat, and headed back to freshen up and make reservations for dinner. An early dinner beckons since tomorrow is travel day and we leave for the Abu Dhabi airport at 5 AM. Packing is another issue that I’m not anxious to address.

Wish us safe passage,
Tamara, Garry and Rich

Captions::1) Mall of the Emirates Indoor Ski Slope 2) Dubai Financial Market (DFM)
3) All the cranes in Dubai 4) CHILLOUT Ice Lounge ice sculpture 5) Twin Bobsled Run

Here we are in the lobby of the J W Marriott in the Bur Dubai area waiting for our room.
The hostess handed us glasses of mango juice and grapefruit juice as we arrived. What a difference from the beach. It’s MUCH, MUCH too serious here and MUCH more formal and traditional with more of the traditional dress on both men and women. Can you believe that I REALLY feel out of place? To pass the time I’ve decided to start early on the blog.

This morning before leaving our beloved Burj we donned our swimming suits and caught the jitney to Wild Wadi Water Park which opened 1 hour prior to general admission hours to accommodate hotel guests. The guys went on the Speed Slide – I decided to sit it out or maybe it could be considered chickening out. The next ride of eleven slides was great – the water pushed you and your tube UP the slides and around the curves and through tunnels. We headed back to pack, check out and take a taxi to the Marriott.

We’ve booked a Desert Safari tour for this afternoon which includes going over desert dunes in 4 X 4s, sand boarding, BBQ dinner, and belly dancing (maybe my past lessons will come in handy). Photos to follow. Time is slipping away and we’re plotting every minute to see the “must-see” sites before leaving Dubai early Monday morning.

We climbed in the Toyota SUV at the Marriott for the beginning of our desert safari with our driver Ramsey. While driving out to the desert we chatted with another woman LeDesa, a kindred spirit who turned out to be lots of fun except that she refused to throw herself under the bus for the sake of the group. Right, LeDesa??? I can’t begin to describe the onslaught of SUVs flying up and down over the dune ridges not knowing what to expect on the other side in addition to doing side slides, hairpin turns, 45 degree angles and best of all, we didn’t flip. What a thrill and of course, we had our seat belts on. Thank goodness since we were still thrown around the seat.

Stopping for a short break for photos we then continued on through another Emirate – Sharjah - for the camel ride, lamb BBQ, and belly dancing. Garry, Rich and I decided to nix the camel ride since our time in Mongolia. I didn’t care to see another camel as long as I lived. The camel (Mongolia) I had refused to walk and no matter how much coaxing. and kicking I did, he wouldn’t move. So I walked to the oasis instead. But LeDesa wanted the camel ride experience and she got it in Dubai. Way to go!

Down the hill to the lamb BBQ with kabobs, potatoes, mixed pickles, drumsticks, hummus, tabulleh, and other choices. Actually the meal was quite tasty and ended just in time for the belly dancing show. Garry and I actually had a chance to dance with the belly dancer. She wanted me to balance a metal cane across the top of my chest and shake my hips at the same time. Let me tell you, the belly dancing classes I had taken never taught me that trick! Maybe the trick was more beer and less clothing.. Garry got under her veil with her shaking his hips a bit. She had great showmanship including many people in the audience. On the ride home we had to stop to let out more air in the tires and shop at a local store - one polo shirt, 4 postcards, 3 Magnum bars cost us 36 USD – the owner threw in a pack of Chiclets. Now you know we were taken. Great fun today, but no sand boarding. Dr. Work, aren’t you happy it didn’t work out?!

Tomorrow(now today), we, along with LeDesa, head to the floor of the Dubai Stock Exchange for a tour. Later, we plan to taxi to the Mall of the Emirates for the indoor ski slope and Chillout Ice Lounge and later to the Gold Souk back near our hotel. It’s our last day and we’ve run out of time.

Tamara, Rich, and Garry

Captions: 1) Desert Safari 2) Tamara, Rich, and Garry with Belly Dancer 3)More desert safari 4) LeDesa, Rich, Garry and Tamara 5) Location of Lamb BBQ in the Sharjah Emirate

Relaxing in Dubai

For a trip that so far, was been short on adventure, but long on luxury, we decided to relax today, enjoy the Burj and just take it easy for our first day.

After a quick tour by golf cart around the beach and Wild Wadi(the Water Park), the reknowned Brunch in our hotel's glass restaurant on the 27th floor offered a variety of food. Lobster, sushi, shrimp, scallops, 6 types of caviar, chocolate soup, pan-seared fois gras with pumpkin and raspberry sauce, custom wok and pasta stations, dim sum, oyster bar, among hundreds of choices for a mere $120.00 a person.

We arrived back in our suite just in time for our butler to present us with not one, but two large cherry torte pies. Because he failed to include a feather we deferred this gastronomical delight until later in the evening. We waddled down to the beach for a dip in the refreshing 90+ degree Persian Gulf waters (Arabian Sea).

Then after a failed attempt at Wild Wadi Water Park because the park was jammed(Friday is Holy Day and time is spent with family), Garry, Rich and I headed back to swim in Burj's pool and the swim up bar a final nightcap.

Old Dubai beckons tomorrow afternoon.

Signing off, Garry, Rich and Tamara

Captions for the pictures: 1) the smallest bedroom of the suite (Tamara's) 2) Rich, Tamara and Garry with Burj Al Arab in background 3) Atrium of the hotel 4) Looking from the bar through living room to parlor of our suite

Photos of the Burj Al Arab

Good morning everyone..

We thought some readers might want to see a few photos of our suite at the Burj Al Arab. From the moment we stepped across the threshold our eyes opened up to a world of splendor. The photos I've taken don't do it justice.

A cup of expresso this morning, a jacuzzi, and eating fresh fruit - wow a way to wake up in the morning. Our friend Adam who lives here in Dubai is joining us for Brunch this afternoon with a tour of the hotel. In the atrium a shot of water rises 32 meters in the tallest atrium in the world. Perhaps I'll be able to photo it.

Tamara

Dubai and the Burj Al Arab

I arrived at the Atlanta airport waiting for Garry and Rich. Upon arrival I asked for bulkhead seats for the guys and all had been allotted to mothers and children. Sitting at the gate the reservationist called my name and asked me to come to the gate. She told me they needed more seats in the back and she was upgrading me to Business Class. I told her I'd love to hug her neck since the flight was 14 hours (instead of 17 hours originally thought). I DID not look at my boarding pass, but proceeded to call friends and tell them about my lucky day. I was so excited.

While talking to other passengers until the guys showed up passed some time - a rug dealer going to Kabul, and a privately contracted policeman stationed at a military Base near Peshawar in Afghanistan. Here comes Garry trying to find me so off we go to Delta's Crown Room for drinks, snacks, more drinks, and coffee. .
Finally the attendants were concerned we'd miss the boarding, so off we went getting in line to board. As they checked the boarding passes with our passports mine did not agree. It turned out that the original reservationist gave me the wrong boarding pass and NOW I'm back in coach. Of course you can just imagine Garry and Rich were for me! Garry and I asked the couple sitting with me if they would mind exchanging seats to accommodate all three of us sitting together. They obliged.

In the middle of the night the three of us paused our movies and headed back for coffee, water and yogurt and chatted with the flight attendants. At on point we all got so loud that a cooworker came back and told us to calm down. They wanted to visit the Burj with us, but another friend is already scedhuled to visit. Great movies passed the time and lots of laughs reminiensing about old trip and the possibility of new one like Iran to see 9 World Hertiage Sights - it's a ONE-TIME only trip. Everest basecamp didn't perticularily catch my attention. Buhtan is still in the running.

Enough about all that and the next few paragraphs -let's more on to Dubai and it's pure decadence.

After a relatively quick flight to Dubai, but only after firefighting machine at the Atlanta airport and our plane sprayed chemicals on a pallet of boxes that were smoking. The pilot said better now than in the air. I agreed 100 % with his decision. We left about 1hr and 45 min late.

After leaving customs we got money and proceeded to stood in one of five long queues at the airport to get a taxi. Anyone coming to Dubai I would strongly urge them to make prior arrangements for pickup rather than waiting in line. We stood for 35 minutes in 95 degree heat at 9:30pm. And yes, the tall woman with blonde hair did get some attention especially with the red glitter toes.

Ah, yes the Burj. Garry had to tell the name to the guard and we passed with the taxi driver and up to the front door, people coming form every angle to assist one. We never once had to go to checkin counter. Three Musketeers were asked to sit as she checked us in. I front of us he enjoyed a cold towel to wipe off after a lenghty flight and a dish of large dates stuffed with candied orange slices

The Hostess personally took us up the stairs to our room on the 22 floor overlooking the Palm Island and the World in addition to Muhammahd and Nevil who are our private butlers 24/7. It;s so totally over the top one just can't believe it. Well believe it - Through Garry card we were upgraded to a 8000 square foot room with three HUGE bedrooms and bathrooms and dressing room. The 2 story foyer, the shades move by remote control, there's a kicthen/a work out room, a study, wireless internet who came to get all of our laptaps on line with their code. NOTHING IS TOO MUCH TROUBLE
More candy and fruit, coffee, and water keep coming.

Tommorrow we plan to do the brunch at 10:30 whose notority is well know throughout Dubai, and the sight from the restaurant on the 27th floor.

GOing to bed - tomorrow the photos of our suite will be happening. Garry's Bed is mirrored. He will need to be monitored. Photos to follow tomorrow - I can bearly type anymore. GoodNight! I;m so tired and missing some events. One last thing - SAVE the Money and come to the Burj!!! What a treat. We've decided to hang around the hotel and all their ammenities like the pool, the water park, the beach, the golf cars, reestaurants, bars - ya da ya da.

I finally got to sleep last night around 1:30 and up at 9:00. Their world famous Brunch begins at 10:00, but we are going at 10:30. TOnight I think it's dinner in the seafood restaurant where you take a three minute vitual submarine tour to enter the restaurant. More to follow.

Caution: After writing last night I don't know if it all makes sense - forgive me.

Tamara

Day of Departure

The saga DOES continue with our flight to Islamabad, Pakistan. We canceled our reservation with Pakistan Airlines who has a terrible safety record. Even the European Union had seriously considered refusing Pakistan Airlines to fly into their member nations. After Garry's persistence, we are now flying out of Abu Dbahi on Etihad Airlines rather than out of Dubai. Abu Dhabi is 2 hours and 25 minutes from Dubai so we have arranged a driver and limo to take us to the airport. It's just another part of the United Arab Emirates we get to see. If all goes well we plan to arrive in Islamabad at 1:15pm on August 27 to join the rest of the group.

I've received some requests for an itinerary to follow along as we travel on the Silk Road. Rather than retyping everything from the website, please go to the ElderTreks website for our route -
http://eldertreks.com/pages/search_details.php?tourid=ETWT00000023

With the last minute items to complete, you know loads of wash, dishes to do, straightening up, I'm packed and ready to go. Just waiting on a friend to take me to the airport and a great adventure. My head scarf is packed.

Tamara

The week prior to leaving for Dubai and Points Beyond

Well, it was bound to happen! On Sunday night we received a convoluted email from Gulf Air, our carrier from Dubai to Islamabad stating our flight was changed. Changed turned out to be canceled, but that was only after I called Gulf Air on Monday and again on Tuesday to discover what they meant. I attempted to find an alternative flight to Islamabad. Momentarily, we are booked on Pakistan Airlines. The saga will continue I'm quite sure. One of my traveling companions will hopefully have better luck - perhaps a male may get better results. Gosh, did I just admit that! My feeling is I'd better get accustomed to this traditional idea in Islamic countries.

As for my traveling companions, The Brothers Paul - Garry and Rich. The three of us met on a trip to Nepal and trekking in the Himalayas in 1998. On the flight to Kathmandu we discovered we were born and raised in eastern Pennsylvania. They went to Lehigh University at the same time I went to Moravian College across the Lehigh River in Bethlehem, PA. We possess an inherent sense of adventure and a love of travel. Since 1998 we have had reunions and traveled to out-of-the-way places like Mongolia, Thailand, and rode the Trans-Siberian Railroad across Russia just to name a few destinations. I must mention their wives don't care for adventure travel, but still encourage Garry and Rich to go. It is so appreciated by me. Thanks Sandie and Linda.

We decided to leave the U.S. earlier and enjoy the decadence and pleasures of Dubai before slugging through the wild environment awaiting us in Pakistan. After Dubai, Garry, Rich and I are joining the other travelers in Islamabad to begin the trip: Silk Road- Journey to Samarkand.


On Saturday August 11, the Winston Salem Journal, a local newspaper, published a story about the coldest spot in Dubai - the CHILLOUT Ice Lounge. Everything in the lounge located in the Emirates Mall is made of ice - the tables, the bar, the decor, the chairs, the glasses. For a cover charge one receives a parka, boots and gloves (rental) with one drink. But, I ask you,
"Won't my lips stick to the ice glass?" After I know the answer to that question I'll start on World Peace! Of course, the CHILLOUT is on our list of things to do as well as visiting the Dubai Stock Exchange. A friend Adam who lives in Dubai offered to take us to the Exchange and show us places where most tourists don't go. We're all for that! Conventionality isn't our strongest suit when traveling.

Packing the duffle bag happens this weekend making room for health bars, wasabi peas/mix, and a drugstore. Be prepared for any and every thing is our motto since professional healthcare is basically non-existent. Even a Polaroid camera with 120 shots will find a spot in my luggage for the rural areas to break the ice with people we plan to meet along the way. Deciding what to pack is THE least favorite part of the trip even more so than the 17 hour non-stop flight to Dubai from Atlanta.

I've offered the brothers to add their comments to the blog. Hopefully, you will get Garry's and Rich's viewpoint.

We are excited to start our journey next week and wish everyone could join us. Take care and see you in September.

Tamara