September 6, 2007
Ring! Ring!! The dreaded 4:15AM wake up call!
That’s how we started our day for the long 13 hour journey from Karimabad, Pakistan to Tashkurgan, China through the Khunjerab Pass, the highest international border crossing in the world at 15,372 ft. We continued on the KKH, carved into mountain sides high above raging rivers (we saw tee-shirts that said “Karakoram Highway 8th Wonder of the World). It is still a 1 ½ lane wide road with death defying hairpin turns, but we’re jaded now. It is 50% wider than the road we took back from Skardu three days ago! While driving, Hamid, our guide talked about the massive landslide in 1973 that blocked the road for a week and dammed up the river. The Pakistani government, fearful of the dam filling up, breaking and killing people, sent the Air Force in to drop bombs, dislodging the debris and allowing the river to flow again. Seeing the terrain makes one wonder how soon the next earthquake or rockslide will occur.
Further down the road, we stopped to photograph a sign, and a woman was sitting in front of it waiting for the bus. Dressed in local garb including a tangerine colored head covering, she posed for pictures and we ended up giving her a ride. She sat with me, and with Iqbahl acting as interpreter we talked and eventually asked some questions about dowries and if she was married. She didn’t speak English but motioned to my face and asked Iqbahl if I was married. I replied, “No.” However, that didn’t satisfy her and she asked, “Why not?” I told her, “Maybe, I’m too bossy.” She smiled and answered, “That’s good.” Everyone laughed!
After about 3 ½ hours, we arrived at Pakistani customs in the border village of Sost where our luggage was unloaded and placed on the ground along side the van. Customs officials eventually came over from their office, checked a list, walked along the luggage and pointed to two pieces for examination - Rich’s and my roommate Antonieta’s.
For border security, the Pakistani government only allows certain vehicles to travel from Sost into China, and they provide busses for this purpose. So, we had to transfer onto a different bus for the remainder of the trip to Tashkurgan. It was there waiting for us, and unfortunately, saying that it appeared decrepit would be an understatement. Layers of fine dust covered the exterior and interior of the bus; however, that was not the only problem.
With the inspection complete, the luggage pulled up and tied down to bus’s roof for our trip into China, we headed to immigration and passport control. Our passports were processed in one office (one worker thought mine was expired), then we had to show our passports AGAIN to another official as we left the building. After ten days, the time had come to sadly say goodbye to our Pakistani guides and driver, but the tour goes on. We had barely started out when we stopped at yet another checkpoint, this time the official came on the bus to check everyone’s passport, visa and exit stamp. Claudio warned us about the redundant process we would face. Two more checkpoints followed as we continued along our route. It seemed as though they would never end.
One thing that didn’t end until Tashkurgan was the terrible bus ride. Not only was the government bus filthy, we also had to put up with diesel exhaust fumes that nearly asphyxiated us and the lack of shock absorbers nearly threw out backs out as we traveled another 85 km of very rough road. One time the driver hit a rut so hard several flew up at least six inches and slammed back down into the seats. The ride seemed like it would never end, but eventually, we arrived at the Khunjerab Pass and the border of China. Road conditions and maintenance between China and Pakistan were at the opposite ends of the spectrum. Probably due to weather at the high elevation, the last section of the KKH in Pakistan was particularly rutted, mostly dirt and rock, and poorly maintained. China’s side was two wide lanes, paved with asphalt, had shoulders and was well maintained. A similar situation exists in the States between the roads of adjoining states, counties, or townships. At least we would now have a relatively smooth ride.
Stopping for photos at the border, the three of us spoke to a couple on bicycles that we passed a bit earlier. The young woman and man had left their native home in Scotland April 2005 with the intention of biking to Istanbul. Over two years later they arrive at this border, and still had no definite plans about when to head home. Interestingly, although they had visas to enter China, they were not allowed to bicycle through the Khunjerab Pass to China’s customs office near Tashkurgan. They had to turn back and ride in a covered bus to that point in China to begin their next leg.
Getting back into the bus and leaving the pass, we next stopped at the Chinese border check. We lost count of how many times a different soldier came into the bus and asked how many people there were. This happened over and over again and it got to be quite funny. Finally, the Chinese soldiers waved us through, into a section of the KKH where no photos were allowed at all, until we got to China’s passport control and customs office 90 km down the road.
What a pleasure it was to drive on a paved road again, however, my worries were not over. Now, the Pakistani driver had to drive on the right hand side of the road instead of the left, and I discovered he still seemed to prefer the left side! The oncoming traffic had to give him a wide berth at times.
As we entered the Customs building, we saw a large sign that read: “Respect the Passenger as the Master, as the Relative, as the Teacher.” It appears that even in this remote area, China is trying to indoctrinate its people in preparation for the Olympics next summer. After clearing through customs, we boarded a new bus, one that will take us through the China segment of our Silk Road journey. We were happy to leave the beat up Pakistani bus and just hoped it would make it back to Sost at least one more time. The hotel was only a short distance away, and after check in, a few of us enjoyed a very nice Chinese beer in the lobby to celebrate our safe passage. This was the first drink since we arrived in Pakistan, and it was so refreshing. Another refreshing part of our entry into China is seeing women on the streets, taking an active role in society, and interacting with males in public.
Signing off in China,
Tamara, Rich and Garry
Captions: 1) Landscape scene 2) Local woman we picked up gave a ride 3) Khunjerab Pass while snowing 4) Dirt road in Pakistan vs. paved Friendship Road in China
5) Cyclist heading to China border up KKH, only to be denied entry
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